Patriarch’s Ponds

Mayakovskaya

Patriarch’s Ponds

The novel The Master and Margarita famously begins here. This is a very popular area for strolling — once for the writer and his friends, and now for Bulgakov’s fans. From 1932 to 1994 the ponds were known as the Pionersky Ponds

Historically, this area was known as Goat Marsh. In the seventeenth century, Patriarch’s settlement appeared here. Patriarch’s Ponds were originally three ponds ordered by Patriarch Ioakim in 1683-1684 to farm fish for his table. In the first half of the nineteenth century, they were filled in, leaving one decorative pond around which a square was established. Patriarch’s Ponds were one of Bulgakov’s favourite places in Moscow and he had a great number of stories connected to them. According to L.E. Belozerskaya, the writer discussed important issues at Patriarch’s Ponds (‘One especially intimate conversation in which M.A. — a closed person — was extremely open bought me over and changed my attitude on single life’).

Point on the map

This map shows where the address sits and how it is tied into the project routes.

2 routes Mayakovskaya

Routes

This point belongs to one or more routes. Open them as sequential walks rather than isolated cards.

Daily life in Moscow in the 1920s and 1930s plays an important role in the multi-layered novel, The Master and Margarita — it is not simply a background for the fantastical events and the characters’ unusual adventures. The novel, addressed to Bulgakov’s contemporaries, describes the lives of Muscovites in detail, with the arguments arising in communal flats, the issue of flats, the spy scare, the invisible but tangible atmosphere of the Great Terror and so on. The events of the novel take over the entire centre of Moscow, and Bulgakov was almost always very precise in the details – the exceptions include only a few addresses (Margarita’s house, the Dramlit house, Stravinsky’s clinic etc.). Bulgakov’s contemporaries would easily recognize their city in the other details, had the novel been printed at that time. Since then, the city has changed a lot – some houses have been demolished, some have been rebuilt unrecognizably, but through the layers, it is possible to glimpse Bulgakov’s Moscow. Following in the footsteps of Bulgakov’s characters, you can feel Ivan Bezdomny’s horror after the death of Berlioz at Patriarch’s Ponds, his desperation in Herzen’s house, the scale of Satan’s ball in Spaso House, the eccentricity of Behemoth’s antics in the Torgsin on Arbat, and much more. The route begins at the Aquarium Garden, not far from Woland’s ‘unpleasant flat’, runs across Tverskoy Boulevard, takes in the lanes around Arbat and ends at the Alexandrovsky Garden, where Azazello and Margarita met.

In the footsteps of the characters of The Master and Margarita
4

First address

  • Stop 4
  • 2,1 km
  • 1 h

The route encompasses sites of literary and biographical significance in the life of Bulgakov, centred around the environs of Patriarch’s Ponds. \tAt the end of September 1921, Bulgakov arrived in Moscow with the intention of becoming a writer – his first address was flat 50 in house 10 on Bolshaya Sadovaya Street. Bulgakov’s first three years in Moscow were closely connected with the region around the Patriarch’s Ponds. The Patriarch’s Ponds are not only important in Bulgakov’s biography, but also in his works – this is where the events of The Master and Margarita begin. In the novel, Woland and his retinue live on Bolshaya Sadovaya, the characters in the tale The Spiritual Séance inhabit 32 Malaya Bronnaya, and so on.

First address